Raquel
October 22nd, 2005, 03:59 PM
Hi everyone. I'm working on some preemie patterns, a gown and a baby wrap (kimono). If you would like to test one or both, just let me know by replying to this post or email me directly at rlmontoydane@yahoo.com.
Here's photos (front and side) and pattern for Baby Wrap (infant kimono). Infant gown details in separate post.
Thanks!
:book Raquel
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a103/rlmdane/29fbbb80.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a103/rlmdane/c943132c.jpg
Baby Wrap (simple infant kimono)
designed by Raquel Montoya Dane
Materials:
Sportweight yarn
G hook (or whatever size needed to obtain gauge)
2 small buttons (1/4" to 5/8" size)
Gauge:
4dc = 1" with smaller hook
Size (aproximate):
This pattern is for extra small or preemie size.
Finished length from shoulder to hem is 10" and around chest is almost 11".
To fit chest size 9 1/2" or thereabouts.
Main gown:
You will start at the yoke and work down. One edge of the kimono will be straight, and the other edge will increase gradually to create an overlap and then straighten out near the waist.
Using smaller hook, Chain 39.
Row 1: Dc in third chain from hook; dc in next 4 chains; 3dc in next chain; dc in next 7 chains; 3 dc in next chain; dc in next 9 chains; 3 dc in next chain; dc in next 7 chains; 3dc in next chain; dc in next 5 chains. Chain 2, turn.
Row 2: dc in next 6 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 9 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 11 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 9 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 5 st. 2dc in last stitch. Chain 2, turn.
Row 3: 2 dc in first stitch; dc in next 6 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 11 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 13 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 11 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 7 st. Chain 2, turn.
Row 4: dc in next 8 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 13 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 15 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 13 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 6 st. 2dc in last stitch. Chain 2, turn.
Row 5: You will create two armholes in this row by skipping the stitches in between the 3dc clusters from the previous row. It may help you visualize this by folding what you have made so far and placing safety pins where you want to join the stitches to make the armholes.
2dc in first stitch; dc in the next 8 stitches. Skip 17 stitches. 3dc in next stitch. (You should now have one armhole.) Continue dc in next 16 stitches. Skip 17 stitches. 3dc in next stitch. (You should now have two armholes). Dc in the last 8 stitches. Chain 2, turn. (40 stitches, not counting turning chain.)
Row 6: Dc in each stitch across except 2dc in last stitch. Chain 2, turn.
Row 7: 2dc in first stitch, dc in each stitch across. Chain 2, turn.
Row 8: Repeat Row 6.
Row 9: Repeat row 7.
Row 10: Repeat row 6.
Row 11: Repeat row 7.
Row 12: Dc in each stitch across (no increasing). Chain 2, turn.
Rows 13-21: Dc in each stitch across. Chain 2, turn.
Row 22: Dc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.
Row 23-24: Sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.
Row 24: Sc in each stitch across. Do not chain; do not fasten off; from this point, make edging.
Edging:
For edging, work 3sc into corners as needed to avoid edges curling. Work one row sc all around the edge of garment (up one side, around neck, and down the other side). Chain 1, turn. Work second row of sc all around. Fasten off at bottom corner.
Longer sleeves (optional):
For long sleeves, with wrong side facing you, join yarn near armpit.
Row 1: Dc all the way around sleeve to create 24 dc total. Join to beginning of row with a slip stitch. Chain 2, turn.
Row 2: *dc in next 4 stitches, then work 1 decrease in next 2 stiches*. Repeat around sleeve. (4 decreases total; 20 stitches).
Row 3: *dc in next 3 stitches, then work one decrease in next 2 stitches*. Repeat around sleeve. (4 decreases total; 16 stitches).
Row 4: sc in each stitch around. Join to beginning of row with a slip stitch. Chain 1, turn.
Row 5: sc in each stitch around. Join to geinning of row with a slip stitch. Fasten off.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Finishing:
Create tie strings wherever needed by joining yarn and chaining 35, then fastening off. One obvious spot for tie strings would be at the corner where the overlap reaches the waist and on the matching area where the overlap touches. Another spot might be somewhere closer to the chest.
Weave in all ends.
Here's photos (front and side) and pattern for Baby Wrap (infant kimono). Infant gown details in separate post.
Thanks!
:book Raquel
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a103/rlmdane/29fbbb80.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a103/rlmdane/c943132c.jpg
Baby Wrap (simple infant kimono)
designed by Raquel Montoya Dane
Materials:
Sportweight yarn
G hook (or whatever size needed to obtain gauge)
2 small buttons (1/4" to 5/8" size)
Gauge:
4dc = 1" with smaller hook
Size (aproximate):
This pattern is for extra small or preemie size.
Finished length from shoulder to hem is 10" and around chest is almost 11".
To fit chest size 9 1/2" or thereabouts.
Main gown:
You will start at the yoke and work down. One edge of the kimono will be straight, and the other edge will increase gradually to create an overlap and then straighten out near the waist.
Using smaller hook, Chain 39.
Row 1: Dc in third chain from hook; dc in next 4 chains; 3dc in next chain; dc in next 7 chains; 3 dc in next chain; dc in next 9 chains; 3 dc in next chain; dc in next 7 chains; 3dc in next chain; dc in next 5 chains. Chain 2, turn.
Row 2: dc in next 6 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 9 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 11 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 9 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 5 st. 2dc in last stitch. Chain 2, turn.
Row 3: 2 dc in first stitch; dc in next 6 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 11 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 13 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 11 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 7 st. Chain 2, turn.
Row 4: dc in next 8 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 13 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 15 st; 3 dc in next st; dc in next 13 st; 3dc in next st; dc in next 6 st. 2dc in last stitch. Chain 2, turn.
Row 5: You will create two armholes in this row by skipping the stitches in between the 3dc clusters from the previous row. It may help you visualize this by folding what you have made so far and placing safety pins where you want to join the stitches to make the armholes.
2dc in first stitch; dc in the next 8 stitches. Skip 17 stitches. 3dc in next stitch. (You should now have one armhole.) Continue dc in next 16 stitches. Skip 17 stitches. 3dc in next stitch. (You should now have two armholes). Dc in the last 8 stitches. Chain 2, turn. (40 stitches, not counting turning chain.)
Row 6: Dc in each stitch across except 2dc in last stitch. Chain 2, turn.
Row 7: 2dc in first stitch, dc in each stitch across. Chain 2, turn.
Row 8: Repeat Row 6.
Row 9: Repeat row 7.
Row 10: Repeat row 6.
Row 11: Repeat row 7.
Row 12: Dc in each stitch across (no increasing). Chain 2, turn.
Rows 13-21: Dc in each stitch across. Chain 2, turn.
Row 22: Dc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.
Row 23-24: Sc in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn.
Row 24: Sc in each stitch across. Do not chain; do not fasten off; from this point, make edging.
Edging:
For edging, work 3sc into corners as needed to avoid edges curling. Work one row sc all around the edge of garment (up one side, around neck, and down the other side). Chain 1, turn. Work second row of sc all around. Fasten off at bottom corner.
Longer sleeves (optional):
For long sleeves, with wrong side facing you, join yarn near armpit.
Row 1: Dc all the way around sleeve to create 24 dc total. Join to beginning of row with a slip stitch. Chain 2, turn.
Row 2: *dc in next 4 stitches, then work 1 decrease in next 2 stiches*. Repeat around sleeve. (4 decreases total; 20 stitches).
Row 3: *dc in next 3 stitches, then work one decrease in next 2 stitches*. Repeat around sleeve. (4 decreases total; 16 stitches).
Row 4: sc in each stitch around. Join to beginning of row with a slip stitch. Chain 1, turn.
Row 5: sc in each stitch around. Join to geinning of row with a slip stitch. Fasten off.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Finishing:
Create tie strings wherever needed by joining yarn and chaining 35, then fastening off. One obvious spot for tie strings would be at the corner where the overlap reaches the waist and on the matching area where the overlap touches. Another spot might be somewhere closer to the chest.
Weave in all ends.