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White Summer Tank pattern (bigger schematic added)
Schematic is at the bottom with measurements, I think I've got it big enough to be useful now. Measurements were taken before edging and unstretched This is 24 inches long from shoulder to waist, and 32 inches wide. It was made to fit a 37 inch chest, so it has considerable give to it. Trying it on as you make it helps to insure a good fit. If you fid any problems or run into trouble I'll try to help. Materials Needed: H hook Worsted weight cotton yarn (approximately half to three/fourth a cone, More if you are making it larger.) Yarn needle Stitch markers *Notes* - For this pattern chain 2 counts as Dc. So be sure to Dc into the Chain 2 as a Dc like you would a normal chain 3, unless otherwise marked. The reason for using a chain 2 rather than a chain 3 is that in this particular case, the chain 2 makes a firmer edge with less stretch than the traditional chain 3 does. - Most of the time you will start and end each row with a Dc, however there are spots where you will either start or end a row with a Sc, in order to keep in the stitch pattern during shaping of the garment. - This pattern is for one size however there are sections that you can add rows to make a larger size, these sections will be noted in the pattern. I have Not tested the larger sizes for accuracy but it is possible to easily make this in larger sizes with a little measuring and experimenting. - This garment is made in one piece by crocheting is side ways rather than the standard horizontal. The benefit is that you only have one large seam to sew and the two small shoulder seams. - This particular stitch pattern has quite a bit of horizontal give to it, and it stretches to fit to a certain degree. Crumpled griddle stitch Base chain odd number of chains + 1 Row 1: Sc in the 3rd chain from hook, Dc in next chain, *Sc in next chain, Dc in next chain* repeat from * to * chain 2, turn. Row 2: skip first dc( the chain 2 acts as the first Dc) *Sc in the next Sc, Dc in the next Dc* repeat from * to * chain 2, turn. Repeat row 2 to continue in pattern. Pattern begin Row 1: Chain 76, Sc in the 3rd n from hook, Dc in the next chain,* Sc in the next chain, Dc in the next chain* Repeat from * to * to end. Chain 2, turn. Rows 2 – 4: * Sc in the next Sc, Dc in the next Dc* repeat from * to * to end, chain 2, turn. Row 5: Repeat row 2, placing a stitch marker in the 28th stitch. Row 6: Work in pattern established up to and including the stitch marked by the stitch marker. Ch 1, turn. Leaving the rest of the stitches unworked. Row 7: *Sc in next Sc, Dc in next Dc* repeat from * to *, chain 2, turn. Row 8: *Sc in next Sc, Dc in next Dc*, repeat from * to * ending on a Sc, chain 1, turn. *Rows 9 – 26: Repeat rows 7 and 8. ( # ) At end of row 26 do not turn, chain 28 and then turn. * Back Width NOTE* You can add rows at this point {Marked by the ( # ) above} in increments of 4 to increase the size by about an inch, then continue with pattern as written. You’ll match this on the corresponding front section so keep track of how many rows you increase by. If you’ll look at the schematic this section including the shoulder straps is 10 inches across. Measure the width between your bra straps to get a rough estimate of how much you need to increase by. Row 27: Sc in 3rd chain from hook, Dc in next chain, continue in established pattern to end. Chain 2, turn. Rows 28 – 31: Repeat row 7 *Row 31 Note* Place stitch marker in 28th stitch Row 32: Work in pattern up to and including the stitch marked by stitch marker. Leave the other stitches unworked, chain 2, and turn. *Underarm size note* You can repeat row 32 ( in increments of 2, 2 rows is about ½ inch) here to increase the width of the underarm area. Then continue with the pattern below. Just remember if you add rows here you have to add the same number of rows on the opposite side. < Side increase rows> Row 33: (chain 2 counts as 1st dc) sc in the 1stsc (increase made) Continue in established pattern, chain2, turn. Row 34: Work in established pattern to end, Chain 1, turn. Row 35: (Sc, Dc) in the first Dc, and continue in the established pattern. Chain 2, turn. Row 36: Work in established pattern to end, Chain 2, turn Rows 37 – 48 repeat rows 33-36, 3 times *Row 48 note* at the end of Row 48, chain 20 and then turn. Row 49: Sc in the 3rd chain from hook, Dc in the next chain, continue in pattern to end, chain 2, turn. Row 50 – 53: Continue in established pattern, chain 2, turn. *Row 53 note* place a stitch marker in the 20th stitch. Row 54: continue in established pattern up to and including the stitch marked by the stitch marker. Leave the rest of the stitches unworked, chain 2, turn. Rows 55- 74: Repeat rows 7 and 8 (#) at the end of row 74, chain 20 and then turn. *Front Width NOTE* You can add rows to match the number of rows you added to the back at this point {Marked by the ( # ) above} in increments of 4 to increase the size by about an inch, then continue with pattern as written. If you’ll look at the schematic this section including the shoulder straps is 10 inches across. Measure the width between your bra straps to get a rough estimate of how much you need to increase by. Rows 75 – 79: repeat rows 49 – 53. *Row 79 note* Place a stitch marker in the 20th stitch. Row 80: Work in pattern established up to and including stitch marked by stitch marker, Chain 1 turn < Side decrease rows> Row 81: Insert hook into 1st Sc and draw up a loop, insert hook into next Dc and draw up a loop, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook, YO and draw through last 2 loops( Dc decrease made) Continue in established pattern to ends, chain 2, turn. Row 82: Continue in established pattern to end, chain 1, and turn. Row 83: Insert hook in 1st Dc, draw up a loop, insert hook into next Sc, draw up a loop, YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook. (Sc decrease made) continue in established pattern to end, chain 2, and turn. Row 84: repeat row 82 Rows 85 – 97: repeat rows 81 – 84, 3 times. ( # ) *Underarm width note* you can repeat row 82 here {marked by the (#) above} (in increments of 2, 2 rows is about ½ inch) to increase the width of the underarm area to match the other underarm if you added rows to it. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew up the side seam. Sew up the side seam matching the corresponding stitches; sew up the shoulder seams, Edgings: To edge the garment: Work one row or Sc’s evenly spaced around the neck opening( if you wish to round the corners of the neck a bit, work 2 sc decreases at each neck corner), arm opening and bottom edge. You can add a second row of Reverse Sc if you wish or you can use the scallop I used Scallop edge: *1 sc, chain 2, YO, insert hook around the post of the Sc just made and draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops on hook, YO, and draw through last 2 loops on hook, skip 2 sc*, and repeat from * to * around, join with a slip stitch to the 1st sc. Fasten off, weave in all ends and enjoy. Schematic to give you a visual idea of measurments and construction http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1/CA3QM1RN.gif Last edited by Sonny321; June 6, 2007 at 05:38 PM. |
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#2
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Thanks for the pattern. This is definitely one I'm going to be trying.
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#3
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this is a beautiful top. I'm adding it to my to do list.
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#4
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Very pretty! TFS!
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#5
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Thank you for the pattern it is great! Do you think it would look good done in Luster Sheen?
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#6
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Great top! Thanks so much for sharing the pattern with us.
Kathy |
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#7
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Love the top! Very pretty.
I cropped the schematic & enlarged it for you but it blurs the words when you "stretch" pixels so I am not sure how much I actually helped. Here it is below. If you pm me the information on the diagram & locations, I may be able to "patch" new text on the enlarged image, I could give a try anyway. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92...chematics2.jpg Last edited by kazily; June 6, 2007 at 10:28 AM. |
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#8
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Very nice summer top, great job.
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#9
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Quote:
http://www.crochetville.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=53183 Yes I do think it would work with lustersheen, BUT this pattern was written for a worsted weight yarn so you'd have to make it according to the measurements on the diagram to get it to turn out the right size. |
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#10
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Thanks I sent you a P.M.
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